With one or two notable exceptions, such as Moelfre (31C), I have been frequently struck by the quality, or strangeness (see Marhofn 133, page 13) of the SubMarilyns of Wales, which are often much better than their Marilyn neighbours. The hills of west Pembrokeshire are a handsome bunch, but for shapeliness and panorama, the SubMarilyn Garn Fawr (213m) takes the biscuit as well as the cake. I visited this gem at the end of a long day in early June, after some fine walking over the Preseli hills and their neighbours, including the excellent Mynydd Carningli. I was therefore in quality mood, but I was not disappointed. After climbing a conifer-choked hill, even a boring one can seem a blessed release, but that was not my state of mind that day.
I parked at Strumble Head in the soft and ebbing light of evening, with the lighthouse on its rugged promontory gearing up for its night-time task. I decided against a direct approach, despite the late hour and imminent long journey home, and took the Pembrokeshire Coast Path southwards around the headland. The path dipped and rose over the contours of this rugged coast, at first leading me further from my objective, but gradually the west face of Garn Fawr came into view, with the youth hostel nestling in its folds. A twisting path wound up from the lane behind the hostel, avoiding most of the mini-crags and boulders that give this little hill a quasi-mountain quality. I noted many scrambling opportunities, but as I was tired I thought it better of it.
The summit had all the narrow and rugged qualities of a true mountain, and views to match, with coastal and mountain panoramas melding beautifully. To the west was a sunset and sea vista, framed to the south by St David's Head and to the north by Strumble Head. To the east the Preseli hills formed an undulating horizon, a misty pastel blue in form and hue. I could have lingered long there, but the brightening lighthouse beams made me aware of the approaching dark. I descended to the east and wound my way by lanes back to the car, my direction never in doubt with the lighthouse there to guide me. The finest Sub in all Wales? I think so.
Garn Fawr, Pembrokeshire (photo: Mark Trengove)
