This hill almost deserves to be a wee shite. I was calling it much worse as I battled through the worst imaginable terrain in order to try to move upwards; head-high bracken, brambles and tussocks, infested by midges, ticks and clegs, peppered with man-eating ditches and holes, felled trees and rotting stumps. I emerged sweaty, cursing, blistered, bitten, scratched, bleeding and limping on to the upper reaches of the plateau to be confronted by a truly magical 360-degree panorama of mountains, sea and sky. Views of the Rum Cuillin at close range; also Canna and Skye and many of the outer isles including Mingulay and Pabbay dotted around a sparkling blue sea. Did I see St Kilda? I think so. Advice: try to pick a better route up than I did if the bracken is at full height (although it will be a challenge to find one). Above all, pick a clear day. The views are stupendous, and well worth the struggle.