Forty-seven years after climbing (literally) my first Corbett (The Cobbler), the beginning of summer 2002 saw me with nine to complete - was it possible to finish them off this year? And if so where should I finish? Well, my final Munro had been Beinn Tarsuinn, so it would be symbolically pleasing to finish on a hill where I could see my completion Munro. Although I didn't plan the last nine, it so happened that the beginning of July left me with only Beinn Lair, in that remote area north of Loch Maree, to finish.
But how? I had always thought it would be good to canoe over Loch Maree and tackle it from the south, as my wife and I had done years before when ascending Slioch. I mentioned this casually to our eldest son, Duncan, and he expressed interest. If I remember correctly, he quoted 'four hours return from the south side of Loch Maree'. In mid-July there was a weather window in a rather wet summer and a good forecast for a few days. My wife Connie said 'go for it - we can be up there in the afternoon'. In the end Duncan couldn't make it, so it had to be a solo effort on foot.
It was late afternoon by the time we set off eastwards from Poolewe, with a fairly light pack (but including a tent). Connie turned back at Kernsary and returned to Cam Dearg hostel in Gairloch, as she was taking things easy, having had a hip replacement less than a year before. I walked on along an excellent track, past the lochans, admiring the magnificent scenery and a rainbow until about 9pm, and then began erecting the tent above the east end of Fionn Loch. That was the signal the midges had been waiting for! The next 15 minutes were purgatory - they were so bad that I couldn't concentrate on how to erect the tent. Eventually it was up and I jumped in quickly, took a quick photograph of a wonderful sunset and settled down for the night.
Next morning I was up early and joined the excellent stalkers' path going southwards towards Letterewe, leaving my pack just above the highest point of the path at Bealach Mheinnidh and continuing up the ridge to the substantial cairn, with tremendous views all round (including Beinn Tarsuinn), but particularly to the northern cliffs - most impressive. I was at the top around 9:30am and took a few photographs before descending to retrieve my pack. Still plenty of time, might as well go for Meall Mheinnidh, it looked inviting. More photos at the top in superb photographic weather. More by good luck than anything else (I didn't have a tripod with me), I later managed to piece together a panoramic view looking over Fionn Loch and Dubh Loch, taking in the wild scenery to the east. The descent from Meall Mheinnidh was 'interesting', necessitating a few upward detours to avoid rocky sections.
And so down to the next stalkers' path - but what are these white dots down by the river? Sheep? No, they're substantially bigger than sheep. I believe that Beinn Lair means 'hill of the mare', and some of these seven or eight horses were mares. They allowed me to walk closely past them as I took another photo for the record.
I walked back westwards, drinking in the magnificent scenery, met Connie near Kernsary and we walked back to the car, then had a celebratory meal in Gairloch. Three months later I had a celebratory ceilidh and invited many of those who had been out on the hill with me over the years. None of the hundred or so present had been with me on Beinn Lair, but there was someone who had accompanied me to the top of my first Corbett 47 years previously.
AD: That's all very well Harrold, but what about getting out of the Corridor and into the Hall?
