Marhofn 58.03 - May 2001

Island Hoping:

St Kilda (25)

Alan Dawson

I have never been to St Kilda and so can not comment from personal experience. However, several people have asked about it, so there is clearly growing interest and a need for some useful information, albeit second-hand. I have spoken to four people who have been there and who between them have climbed all the St Kilda Marilyns. What follows is my own interpretation of the current situation:

• Access and permission are huge issues, and it is not easy to summarise them without talking about the roles and responsibilities of NTS and SNH and the inherent tension between them. The net result is that it is difficult to get official permission for access to any of the Marilyns other than Conachair on Hirta.
• Both stacs are huge breeding colonies for gannets and other species, and access to them in the main breeding season is likely to be impossible. Even if permission were granted at other times, the weather is likely to make safe landing impracticable.
• Landing on any of the islands or stacs other than Hirta is difficult and dangerous. In climbing terms, Dun is perhaps a diff, Boreray v diff, Soay severe, and the stacs extreme, but the weather can make nonsense of any landing plans. A settled spell of calm weather is a necessity.
• Even after landing, reaching the top of Boreray and Soay is not at all easy. The climbing is not technical, but the grass is extremely steep and the exposure considerable. Confidence and a good head for heights are needed.
• Climbing on the stacs is far from easy but not impossible. Even Stac Lee may be no more than a diff, though it looks appalling. Much of it is a scramble up exceedingly narrow, steep, exposed ledges, with one poorly-protected roped climb. Stac an Armin is a little easier. However, technical difficulty on both is overshadowed by the problems of landing, tremendous exposure and intimidation of seabirds.
• St Kilda is a fantastic place and well worth visiting even if you only get to land on Hirta.

In summary, a trip to any of the islands other than Hirta and Dun should be treated as a major expedition. Anyone who is interested in going is advised to find out more beforehand, as the access situation in particular is liable to change. Stuart Benn has made a number of visits in a professional capacity, and is willing to offer informal advice to individuals on matters such as travel to and between the islands, access, landings and routes. He can be contacted by email to stuart.benn@rspb.org.uk